Making a Willow Obelisk for Climbing Plants

Why Grow Climbing Plants on a Willow Obelisk?

There is something deeply satisfying about a willow obelisk. It brings a rustic, natural structure to any border, pot, or veg patch, and it costs very little if you have access to a few willow rods. Unlike metal or plastic supports, a willow obelisk weathers beautifully, blending into the garden as it ages.

For climbing plants such as sweet peas and clematis, a willow obelisk offers the perfect combination of support and texture. The thin stems give plenty of places for tendrils to grip, while the open weave allows air and light to reach the foliage. This helps reduce the risk of mildew and other damp-related problems.

Choosing the Right Willow and Tools

Not all willow is equal when it comes to weaving. You want long, flexible rods that will bend without snapping. The best varieties are common osier (Salix viminalis) and purple willow (Salix purpurea). If you are cutting your own, do it in winter when the sap is down and the rods are pliable. Avoid using freshly cut willow in spring or summer, as it will readily root and sprout.

• Willow rods: You will need about 20 to 30 rods, each roughly 1.8 to 2.4 metres long.
• Secateurs: Sharp bypass secateurs make clean cuts and reduce splitting.
• Garden twine: Natural jute or hemp twine is best.
• Mallet or lump hammer: Useful for driving the uprights into firm ground.

If your willow is dry and brittle, soak it in a water butt or bath for a week before use. Drain the rods and keep them damp in a sack while you work.

Building the Base Ring and Uprights

Start by selecting eight to ten of your thickest rods for the uprights. Lay them in a circle on the ground, overlapping the ends, and weave a thin rod in and out to hold them together. This creates a base ring roughly 30 to 40 centimetres across. Secure the ring with twine at four points.

Now push the uprights into the ground. If you are working on soil, use a mallet to drive them in about 15 centimetres deep. If you are placing the obelisk in a pot, push the rods down to the base of the container. Space the uprights evenly, then tie a second ring of twine around them about 30 centimetres up from the base to keep them steady.

Weaving the Sides

Now for the meditative part. Take a thin, flexible rod and weave it horizontally around the uprights. Start at the base, passing the rod over one upright and under the next. Keep the weave snug but not tight, as you want the structure to flex slightly. When you reach the end of a rod, tuck the tip inside the weave and start a new one.

Work your way upwards, spacing the horizontal rods about 10 to 15 centimetres apart. As you go higher, the obelisk will naturally taper. You can encourage this by gently pulling the uprights inwards as you weave. Stop when you reach the top, leaving a few uprights to cross over and form a simple finial. Tie them securely with twine.

Planting and Training Your Climbers

Position your obelisk where it will receive plenty of sun. For sweet peas, plant them in a rich, well-drained soil. Sow seeds in autumn or early spring, and plant out when the seedlings are about 15 centimetres tall. For clematis, choose a variety that suits your aspect. Most prefer their roots in shade and their heads in sun, so plant a low-growing companion at the base to keep the roots cool.

As your plants grow, gently tie in the stems with soft twine. Sweet peas will twine naturally, but clematis needs a little guidance. Train the stems around the outside of the obelisk rather than through the middle, so you can see the flowers. Water regularly during dry spells, and mulch with garden compost to retain moisture.

Looking After Your Obelisk

Fresh willow may sprout leaves and roots if it is kept damp. If this happens, simply rub off the shoots with your thumb. It is a sign that your willow was alive when you wove it, but it will not harm the structure. Dried willow is less likely to sprout, though it can be more brittle to work with.

With care, a willow obelisk will last two to three years. To extend its life, bring it under cover in winter if it is in a pot, or wrap the base with a little fleece in severe frost. When it finally collapses, it can be chopped up and added to the compost heap.